Tradition is the caravan of the heritage passed on to us by our forefathers, and the people of Assam have very elegantly managed to carry forward the flame that was passed to them rightly. Assam is a beautiful place that happens to be one of the Seven Sisters in the North East. It is replete with striking visuals, untold tales, hushed traditions, and one-of-a-kind fashion. The intricate patterns and embroidery crafted by the people of this region are a testament to the hidden beauty and magic of this land. Many undiscovered tribes remain, each with its distinctive style of dress, providing us with an opportunity to learn about and appreciate the diverse cultures that our country encompasses. Here, let's have a look at the beautiful and exquisite pieces of clothing that one can find only in Assam.
The Dhoti and Gamosa are indigenous garments worn by the men of Assam. The Dhoti, a ubiquitous piece of attire in India, drapes over the lower half of the body, but tying it correctly and bearing it with grace can prove to be a challenging task. Conversely, the Gamosa is a rectangular piece of cloth with an essential role in Assamese culture. Its name originates from its function as a cloth to wipe oneself clean, and it features a striking red border on three sides, along with woven motifs on the fourth. The Gamosa holds immense cultural significance in the state and is often utilized to honor and reward great achievements. Its versatility is remarkable, as it can function as a waistcoat or a loincloth, as seen in the traditional Bihu dance.
The Mekhela Chador is a conventional outfit for the women of Assam, worn by women of all ages, except children. This two-piece garment consists of a long piece of cloth called the Mekhela, draped from the waist down and pleated, and a Chador that covers the upper body. The Chador is an elongated piece of cloth that is tucked into the Mekhela and wrapped around the body, with triangular folds that require immense skill to master. Donning these traditional garments can be a daunting task for many, as they require precision and finesse to pull off flawlessly.
Assam is a land of various tribes, each with its own unique culture, traditions, lifestyle, and fashion. Delving deeper into the state reveals a plethora of artistic clothing styles worn by the major tribes that call Assam home.
The gentlemen hailing from the Dimasa community are renowned for donning a Sgaopha or Phagri, a headgear that symbolizes their self-respect. The Sgaopha comes in shades of green or yellow, but during momentous events such as weddings, the groom adorns a white turban with a crimson thread tied below the jaw. The Rigdo, a small muffler, is a quintessential accessory for these folks. Moreover, the Dhotis, Risha, and Gainthao, which vary in length, are also customary to their traditional wardrobe, with the Risha reaching the knees and the Gainthao extending to the ankles.
The ladies of this tribe possess remarkable beauty and are enhanced by their magnificent apparel. Their garments are akin to the Mekhela Chador, with the exception of the Rigu, which is a prevalent clothing item amongst them. The Rigu is an extended cloth draped from the waist down, usually touching the ankles. Bathormai, a Rigu with a single pattern across the entire fabric, is particularly prevalent during summers due to its shorter length. The Rijamphain, a dress-like outfit that spans from the chest to the knees, is frequently spotted on young women. Despite their unassuming clothing, these people exude elegance with every stride.
The gentlemen belonging to the Bodo tribe, though traditionally simple dressers, often clothe themselves in the Gamosa, a common garment of Assam. This attire drapes over their lower half from waist to knee, leaving their upper torso bare. However, with the times progressing, modernity has crept into their wardrobes, and shirts are becoming a more acceptable option. One distinguishing feature of the Bodo men is their footwear, which has historically been wooden and known as Khorom.
The ladies of this tribe boast a distinct fashion statement. Their attire includes the Dokhna, a long cloth dress that they wrap around their bodies from the chest down to their ankles. It is fashioned to wrap only once around their bodies and then tied around the waist. The Dokhna comes in various bright colours, patterns and Agor. If a Dokhna lacks Agor, it is deemed a bridal gown and referred to as a Salamatha. The Bodo people have honed their skills in producing fine clothes from eri fibres that everyone admires for their elegance.
The Mishing tribe, a community that embraces the Assamese dress code in its entirety, adorns themselves in elegant attire. Men don the Gonru Ugon, a dhoti that gracefully drapes from their waist down. For their upper body, they dress in the Mibu Galuk, a long-sleeved shirt resembling a dress. As with other cultural groups, the Gamosa Dumer is held in high esteem and is a staple for the Mishing tribe.
The women of this tribe exhibit modesty in their traditional dress, adorned in the simple yet graceful Mekhela Chador, also referred to as the Yakan Age-Gasar, which is swathed in black. Though not opulent, they radiate vibrancy and splendor in their bright-hued blouses.Their celebration of joyous events, such as weddings, is enhanced by the kaleidoscopic hues that these women embellish themselves with, thus setting a remarkable benchmark.
The Rabha tribe is devoted to their customs and exhibits a distinctive sense of dress, particularly for women. The men, on the other hand, adhere to the Assamese style of dress, adorning themselves in the timeless combination of dhoti and Gamosa. Though modifications are made to this traditional ensemble, the natives prefer the white or colorful dhoti, and the long Gamosa, which has remained a constant in almost every tribe in the state.
The women of the Rabha tribe exude grace and elegance, attired in the Koum Kontong, a skirt-like garment that is wrapped around their waist, and adorned with breathtaking patterns that will leave you awestruck. To cover their upper body, they wear the kambang, while a belt or cummerbund made of beautiful shells and pearl balls, called the labok, is a popular accessory that they adorn around their abdomen.
